Watering Troughs & Waterers -
(some assembly required) 
Nearly anything that can hold a liquid can be used as a watering trough but it's not always convenient.
I have several plastic drums that were cut in half and are currently being used for water as I change over to automated watering. These drums and several small ponds served well as I first set up this flock but when I wanted to take a few days away 
from the sheep I needed someone to look after them and these wouldn't do. And after doing a little research regarding parasite transmission in pond water I figured that I'd start thinking of other plans and automated waterers are the project coming out of this work. Besides, I'm lazy and tired of hauling water to fill the troughs or dragging a 150 ft hose around to different pastures and winding it back up when I'm done. I know, I know, but I'll make any excuse to get out of a little work that simple automation can do for me.
You may have already read that I work in the chemical industry and many of the pipes I use in my work are PVC. The only difference is that the chemical industry uses a much stronger and thicker version of PVC than what you might be familiar with because in my industry we need a stronger pipe for both safety concerns an for pumping liquids at higher pressures.
If you've never done any PVC work before, take a look at the PVC Parts & Acc. page for tips on joining pipes, the tools, the names of the pieces that are sold, and other equipment you might find useful to do a top notch job. It's not hard, but if you've never seen it done or don't have the tools to do it right this will be one of those projects that can scar you for life, especially if your spouse is watching as you spring a leak the second the water pressure is turned on again.
I've created a pictorial to show you some of the things you might encounter on the A Basic PVC Project page for you to follow along.
Getting Your Water Supply:
The first thing you'll need to do is locate the nearest pressurized water source to be used for your water supply. Typically your source will be the hose attachment on the house which will be likely be a galvanized pipe with a threaded nipple for the garden hose valve. Some houses have copper pipe where the valve has been welded (or sweat) onto the valve. And it seems that many new homes these days are using PVC because of the cost of metal pipe.
Picture (above) is a threaded nipple to which a valve was screwed onto. After the water main is turned off a Tee ca be installed here to supply your water project.
Starting from a Copper main:
If you're starting from Copper pipe, I'd suggest calling a plumber and have them install a Tee, a valve and a threaded nipple for you. Welding copper pipe can be tricky if no one has ever shown you before and you're better off calling a plumber or using a friends knowledge for this job. And if you know how to sweat pipe, you can probably do this project blindfolded; skip to the end of this page to look at the Automatic Float Valves.
Starting from a Galvanized Main (See picture above):
By simply turning off the main water and relieving the pressure you can use a pipe wrench to remove the valve head and adding a threaded Tee. By adding a Tee and nipple between the house pressure and the valve, you can start your new water line toward the trough. Just remember to use Teflon Tape and PTFE pipe dope to prevent leaks in this pipe.
From the galvanized threaded Tee, add a PVC threaded adapter which will from this point forward convert you to PVC. If you prefer, you can use another piece of short galvanized pipe until it's below ground for both looks and safety from breakage, then add a PVC adapter to make the transition from metal to plastic pipe below the ground. Regardless, Teflon tape and pipe dope should always be used for threaded pipe.
Starting from a PVC main:
Turn off the main water line, cut the PVC using the pipe cutter and weld a Tee into the line. Make sure that the PVC is perfectly dry before welding in the Tee. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT because ANY water will cause a the PVC weld to either prematurely harden it else form a channel in the weld and IT WILL LEAK no matter what you do.
I absolutely hate the look of this plumbing job (to the right). It was a poor job, easy to break if a ram pushed on it, and the main water supply shut off is very far away and in a place where no one would suspect it would be - a problem if I weren't around. This pipe was reduced to only 1/2" even though the pipe sticking out of the building is 1". Since it's 1/2" before the hose connection
the flow is now reduced to a maximum of 3 gal/min being that it's SCH 80 pipe (Note that it's a grey pipe - A certain clue). At this flow rate it takes 20 minutes to fill a single barrel!
I'll be cutting the white PVC next to the wall and starting fresh by running an elbow and pipe to the ground, reducing the pipe to 3/4" (a standard size), and covering the valve with an access cover so that it's underground and out of site. Later, I'll install a Tee and run a new pipe for a hose connection at a full 3/4" (Giving me 8 gal/min - see chart on the PVC Parts & Acc. )
From the Main Water Line:
Now that you have a socket fit from your main line, either from the PVC Tee or from the adapter that is transitioning from metal PVC, run the pipe underground to a small cover and install a valve. (See A Basic PVC Project)
The valve is VERY important. Most people don't want to spend the extra $10 and later find that they'll need to turn off the house pressure every time they want to make an emergency repair. Of course, the repair will be on a Sunday evening after the stores are closed and you don't have the one part you need (Been there, done that).
How Deep to Bury Your Water Lines:
How deep you bury your water lines depends on the climate you live in. If you get snow, you'll need to find out how far down your frost line goes in the winter and bury the pipes below that depth as well as protect the exposed lines from freezing by wrapping them in insulation or draining your pipes. Anyone in your local plumbing supply will know this information and can help you.
In a freezing climate all of the exposed pipe will need to be drained in the winter to prevent water from freezing and cracking the pipe. Perhaps this is another thing you should speak to your local plumbing supply about before starting. Part of this plan might include installing a separate valve at the lowest elevation which can be accessed and opened to help save your pipes in late fall.
Once you decide how deep to run your lines, start digging, joining, and routing your plumbing the direction you want your water. The final step is bringing the pipe above ground and attaching a nipple to fit your watering trough float valve's need.
Types of Automatic Float Valves:
Most float valves work in a similar manner to the way your toilet tank refills itself. As the water level drops in the trough a floating valve lowers and allows water to flow freely until the water level raises and once again applies pressure to raise the float and re-seal the water supply; that's it, not hard to imagine.
There are four (4) common options:
Automatic Stock Waterer:
This type of waterer is complete and self-contained. The only thing that you need to do is supply water and mount the entire pre-fabricated assembly to a wall, fence, or post at the proper level for your sheep.
What I find attractive about this particular choice is that it's small. However, being that it's fixed to the wall, cleaning may seem a bit awkward and requires you getting a little wet by splashing the contents out after scrubbing, rubbing, or disinfecting with bleach to kill algae.
This stock waterer is normally used for horse stalls and prices range from $25 - $38. Water hook up is made easy by either a 3/4" or 1/2" threaded female connection - easily done using either a hose attachment or a PVC nipple and hard-lined to your plumbing (
Installation shown at the bottom of this page). There are several manufacturers that offer different options such a plain galvanized, epoxy coating, powder coating, and even some in plastic as well as a small variety of color choices. I'd suggest a light color if it's outdoors and powder coating since it does better to inhibit corrosion and chipping. The least expensive waterer of this type I found was at
Dover Saddlery - used in the demo below - shipping brings the price up so quantity helps.
Lastly, it's difficult to tell from this picture (the bottom of this page has a better view) but the back is completely flat reaching from the bottom of the bowel to the top lip. Flipping open the door in the bowl, there are two pre-drilled holes in the metal so that large wood screws, lag bolts, or even U-bolts could be used to secure it to a wall or beam/post having a cross member.
Automatic Float Valve:
It's a little deceptive, but this is almost exactly like your toilet tank float. The red float is housed inside a plastic box to protect the mechanism. As the float drops a small rubber flap moves away from a small water opening immediately under the hose connection (Shown here on the top right) and allows water to flow into the container immediately under it.
The price is great, $7.50 - $19, depending on the housing material and anti-syphoning options. It comes with two clamps that can mount on any straight-wall container.
I suspect, not having owned one but inspecting it closely in the store, that the rubber orifice will degrade in time and/or easily become plugged with floating debris; I found no replacement parts available in stores. This is probably a good option so long as it's installed away from the sheep's normal walking and sleeping areas as it may be a device that will dribble constantly as it ages. However, since this valve installs above any container it allows for easy removal of the trough for cleaning.
Hudson Water Control Valve:
Inside this little compact housing is a float valve that somewhat resembles an upside down floating blue cup. You would install this at the top water level of the trough simply by screwing it into a threaded 1" or 1/2" threaded nipple water supply; that's it. So long as the water supply pipe is secure, so is the valve. It's installed just as it appears here.
This valve seems to be more reliable as most cattle ranches seem to recommend this option - cattle being a little more aggressive than sheep. This valve already has a small screen assembled at the top to keep particulates from blocking or plugging the valve and if installed properly allows you to easily remove the container it will out from under it for easy cleaning.
The drawback is price. This valve seems to be priced at about $26 - $38 each which does not include a trough for the water. However, it's ease of installation, size, and low maintenance may be reason enough for you to go this direction.
Watering Nipples and Cups:
Thanks to the reminder and coaching from a reader, this class of waterer was added. The principle is simple, clamp down on the nipple and water comes out. I've seen this used long ago in dog kennels and recently for pigs (different orientation), but I never thought that sheep would catch onto the idea (Ummm, . . they ain't smart)-- It was pointed out to me and I freely admit that I was wrong just plain wrong. I guess they are smarter than I thought.
Sheep learn by watching, even though they don't let on to that fact. You may have to show them a couple times but once one of the sheep see another doing something, they copy it.
Training a sheep to come to one of these waterers may mean a little "forced" thirst, but a hand fed sheep led to the waterer and shown how it works will quickly pass throughout the flock. Soon they'll be standing in line to drink like kids in a school yard.
After searching the web I found that this is possibly the least expensive and durable option for waterers. Purchasing the valve alone runs from as little as $5 - $12 and comes in many configurations for different types of animals. I've never seen this installed properly until I viewed
Trojan Specialty Product's website. Many local suppliers will carry these in Aluminum, but for LESS you can purchase this in stainless steel -- just do it right and wait a few extra days.
Once pointed this direction I determined to look for the best of the best and found this company.
Here you can find nipples made of stainless steel as well as the drip cup and brackets to properly install it. There is also the option of
GRAVITY FEED nipples which can be attached to 55 gallon plastic drums. For many people without pressurized water filling a 55 gallon drum is a great option for remote solar, windmill-air-pump, or run-off collection locations.
I also love the option of ALL stainless parts. Corrosion due to salts, minerals, sunlight, and acidic water can take a real tole on paint, galvanized, and plastic materials. Stainless Steel is by far the best material available for any equipment you might use and I feel that the prices at Trojan are outstanding for these products.
Installation of a Waterer:
After you've decided the placement of your waterer/s and have laid all of the pipe then it's time to choose and install your waterer. I chose the first option (Stock waterer) because it had it's own bowl, seemed easy to clean, it's a tried and true method for watering horses, durable, the float was protected from the animals, and the footprint was small (It doesn't need much space). I could have gone with the Nipple & cup but unfortunately I had already ordered and was underway with this option before purchasing one for a trial.
The first thing that was needed was a support post for this type of waterer, or else you can screw it to a solid fence or barn wall if you prefer. I thought it best to sink the post 30 inches deep in concrete just like a fence post because given the height, and possibly water saturated ground, I felt that the extra depth and weight would add stability and durability to the post; treated wood was used as well.
I expect that a ram may one day want to rub up against the post and wanted to be sure it could withstand the full force of his pushing up against it day after day. As well, wet earth around a post will cause dry rot and eventually weaken the post so concrete seemed like a good option. [Hindsight, the ground was never really wet except for rain, cleaning is easy, and the goat wanted to stand on the post quite frequently]
The picture below shows the float valve which is easily accessed by lifting the protective lid/gate. I thought this was a great feature if a sheep or goat sticks their hoof in the bowl and tries climbing up on top of the post (one never knows). The gate will protect the somewhat fragile plastic assembly inside its own little compartment and the sturdy steel construction will easily hold the weight of an average sized sheep if mounted properly.
The standard waterer will come with a 1/2" threaded pipe nipple sticking straight out. To avoid a sheep from getting tangled in the water line leading to the ground I chose to purchase a threaded elbow and attach a nipple to connect the hose to.
Notice that Teflon tape is being used on all threaded connections and that the mounting holes are located in the back. These holes will be used to screw the waterer to the post using stainless steel screws and washers (Not included in the kit). [Hindsight, the horizontal support needs to be cut at the proper width before installation, being the width of the back of the waterer. I didn't do this when building it and it caused for extra work]
(Picture below) Placing the bowl against the lower post I centered and marked the screw hole locations. Using a punch (Often used for sinking finishing nails) I punched two deep holes to make it easier for me to insert the screws into the wood and thread the wood using the screws.
By first screwing in the stainless screws (Not part of the purchased package) it will make assembly MUCH easier for you.
Remove the screws, insert the waterer, and re-screw the waterer into place. Connect a standard toilet bowl water supply line, 1/2" stainless steel braided hose (I prefer the braided stainless to the plastic since plastic will get brittle in the sunlight and break in a year or so). The other end of the flex hose will screw into the threaded nipple in your water line (Shown). I also installed a union in the even I want to install a valve in the future. [Hindsight: I found threaded valves for about $3 each and was able to replace a union. Since the valve was threaded it made it even easier to replace if needed and there is no PVC cement required for installation]
Looking at the finished results I no longer look at a rather large slice of blue 55 gallon drum. Instead I see a rather small stick in the ground that blends well with the rest of the environment. In time, the bald spot created by the drum will fill in with new grass or become part of the new path. Now there is no more worry about water when I've gone on vacation for a few days or a week -- they have all the grass they need. Since this project went over so well, I'm satisfied enough to purchase and install the other two locations with the same type of waterer.
Project Costs:
Post (6 ft, 4x4, treated) ~$ 6.00
Cement (1 bag) ~$ 3.00
Waterer (Including shipping) ~$33.00
Threaded elbow, nipple, Teflon tape, & braided stainless hose ~$12.00
Stainless steel screws & washers ~$ 3.00
PVC Plumbing ~$40.00
Total Cost ~ $ 95.00
**Note -- The cost of the plumbing should have been distributed between three(3) waterers and not just this one. That brings my cost lower by about $13 . . . . $82 total.
At first glance this may not seem as thrifty as the $7- $18 float valve with a hose slung out to the tank, but when you add up the cost of a galvanized tank (~$65 - 80), float valve (~$8 - $19), and a hose (~$10 - $25) then your total cost is nearly the same at more at ~$83 - $124. But my cleaning is light and easy, there is no stagnant water to clean or waste, hoses are buried and safe from the sun and foot damage, and the footprint of this assembly is so much smaller than drums or tanks. It's just my opinion but this really does look much better than it once did. [Hindsight: Now that the waterers are all in place, many of the sheep are drinking the fresh water rather than from the pond probably because the water is cooler, being that the pipes are underground, and easier to drink from since they don't need to bend or kneel down to drink from a pond whose water level is lower than the steep banks at the deep end]
